The Ultimate Guide to Jewelry PVD Coating Colors

The Art & Science of PVD Color

The color in PVD coating is bonded to the metal at a molecular level in a vacuum chamber. Therefore, the shade is much more intense and durable than routine plating or the color put on the surface of the metal.

The color produced by this technique depends on the type of metal target (deposition of Titanium, Zirconium, or Chromium) and gas (Nitrogen, Acetylene, or Oxygen) used. The color varies according to the combination.

This guide contains the complete list of standard PVD coating colors used in jewelry, from the classic gold tones to blues and greens.

Jewelry PVD Coating Color Chart

A color chart of common PVD coatings is presented below as an aid to finding a quick reference. The chart shows each color, the metal used as a target, and the reactive gas that will produce that color.

The Gold Standard: Finding the Perfect Karat Tone

14K Gold PVD

14K Gold PVD has a warm, pale yellow color. It appears “gold” without being obnoxiously gold, making it ideal for daily wear accessories — think of rings to be worn and layered, stainless steel chains, and a simple chain with a heart charm. If your target demographic is young women, such as the “clean girl,” 14K Gold PVD may be your solution. It is also cheaper on the bottom line for consistent production instead of its 18K or 24K equivalents because of the lower nitrogen requirements during the deposition process.

18K Gold PVD

18K PVD is a deeper yellow color. It most closely resembles the look of real gold-filled, which is why it is the most popular gold tone for bulk wholesale orders. Most brands that fall in the mid-price to premium price range will choose this tone, as it photographs well and has a uniform appearance. It is also the default gold tone for stainless steel in many China jewelry factories.

24K Gold PVD

A color within PVD which has been created in the 24K yellow gold finish to provide an intense, bold, traditional appearance – this orange/brown-yellow color is often used for bridal jewelry, jewelry worn by women of South Asian descent, and also used in countries where the cultural preference for pure yellow gold is dominant.

It will take precise measurements of gas mixtures and target control to create a true 24K color with very consistent color throughout the production run. The standardization process of 24K is also more complicated than the 18K color.

Champagne Gold

Champagne gold PVD is a pale, muted shade of yellow that tends more towards silver or pale grey than 14K gold. It is softer and has a cooler, more subtle tone. It is a more modern and Scandinavian design inspired or minimalist style of gold. The champagne gold PVD pairs well with white stones and neutral colors.

If you’re following the current trends in jewelry, then you’ll know that champagne gold is quickly becoming the new normal as consumers begin to move away from traditional bright yellow gold.

The Romantic Palette: Rose Gold & Copper

Rose Gold PVD

Real rose gold acquires its distinctive pink hue from the presence of copper within the alloy. Unfortunately, this copper also carries the nasty side effect of tarnishing (a fact you’re no doubt all too familiar with).

Unlike the tarnishing copper alloy, PVD’s finish achieves its characteristic pinkish-red hue without any oxidative reaction. Instead, the color is the result of the interaction between Titanium or Zirconium targets infused with Nitrogen and Acetylene gases.

The result is a beautifully saturated rose gold finish that not only mimics the look of precious metals but also actually holds up to the test of time. No more green skin and uneven fading – ever. This is a huge benefit of PVD over traditional plating methods.

Sunset Copper

A PVD application of sunset copper will typically yield a deeper, redder shade of the metal as compared to a rose gold PVD finish. It is a more industrial color, less dainty, and made popular with some men’s pieces in streetwear and workwear.

Copper jewelry causes some pretty funky green spots on your skin from oxidation – PVD copper on stainless steel has zero such reactions. The base metal is always completely sealed and isolated from direct contact with the elements and elements of the human body.

The Monochromatic Suite: Black, Gray, and Silver

Jet Black & Obsidian

Black PVD is available in two options: 

1. High gloss / “piano black” mirror finish gives a shiny deep black appearance. 

2. Matt black finish, resulting in a flat, softer black finish, giving an understated, almost tactical appearance to the piece.

Both coatings are using the Chromium or Titanium targets in a high Acetylene gas atmosphere. Black PVD is one of the most sought-after finishes, especially for any business specializing in avant-garde unisex jewelry designs.

Think black stainless steel rings or angular pendants paired with onyx stones.

Gunmetal Gray

Gunmetal gray is a color that falls between silver and black on the color spectrum and makes a great choice for architectural or rugged designs in jewelry.

This finish is produced by sputtering Chromium targets with a nitrogen atmosphere. Chunky chains, wide cuffs, and stainless steel bracelets look very dramatic in gunmetal.

It pairs really well with dark leather, which is why it tends to pop up a bit in men’s combination pieces.

Cool Silver/Steel

Stainless steel coated with PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) silver gives a whiter, cleaner-looking metal surface similar to that of white gold or platinum. A silver PVD coating is achieved by using a source of Chromium and/or Titanium with Argon gas as an inert shield.

It is often considered a cost-effective alternative to rhodium plating, and it is also more scratch-resistant than rhodium-plated jewelry.

It is a good alternative for manufacturers of nickel-free jewelry wishing to retain a white, highly polished finish to the metal.

The Bold & The Beautiful: Creative PVD Colors

Electric Blue

By depositing Titanium Nitride with carefully controlled nitrogen levels to create this lovely cobalt blue. The coating has a very strong molecular bond with the stainless steel surface, so the coating does not crack or flake off like spray coatings.

Electric blue is excellent for statement pieces and jewelry such as rings, earrings, and accent pieces. It photographs extremely well against silver or black backgrounds.

Coffee & Chocolate

Demand is building for earth tone PVD colors, particularly in the deep brown spectrum, as customers begin to consider more warm, natural design choices.

Coffee and chocolate tones tend to pair really well with leather bracelets and natural stone.

They are produced using Zirconium targets with a blend of Acetylene and Nitrogen. This creates a smooth, matte leaning warm brown color that feels very organic and natural without being dull.

Rainbow

Rainbow PVD isn’t made by combining several colors. It is made using only one Titanium Nitride layer of various thicknesses on one unit. When the light reflects off various thicknesses of the material, it appears at different wavelengths – red, yellow, green, blue, and violet all appear from a single process.

This is a thin-film interference. It is similar to the impact of enamel jewelry, but no further components are applied.

Deep Purple & Emerald Green

Purple and green PVD are newcomers to the range of base colors.

They are produced using Titanium / Niobium targets and Nitrogen / Oxygen gases over longer deposition cycles.

They are rare-coated colors – although not usually in high-volume production, they are being requested more and more by brands looking for something different to help them be seen as cutting edge. Deep purple is also especially effective alongside brighter gold hardware.

Texture Meets Color: How Finish Changes the Hue

Polished vs. Matte

The surface texture under the PVD layer changes how the final color looks to the human eye.

Here is a clear comparison:

A mirror finish darkens and saturates the color of any PVD. A brush or satin finish lightens and gives the same color a more pronounced texture. In manufacturing, this finish happens to the substrate metal before PVD – so it is already a choice made in the design process.

Sandblasted Colors

Sandblasting the metal surface before PVD creates thousands of tiny micro-craters across the piece

When light strikes this surface after PVD coating, the light will scatter in multiple directions, creating a slight sparkle effect due to the micro-craters.

Sandblasted black and sandblasted gold are very popular finishes for men’s rings and pendants, and if you wish to add depth visually to a piece without increasing production costs, sandblasting is one of the most effective ways to achieve this before coating the finished item.

Color Consistency & Longevity

Batch Consistency

PVD can be vacuum-tuned and repeated. Once established for a specific color with the necessary gas ratio and target material (18k gold in this case), PVD can be saved and used with all future orders. So, for companies that need a uniform color across 500 or 5,000 units, PVD is a better choice. Traditional electroplating is far more susceptible to batch-to-batch variation due to chemical bath degradation.

Color consistency is the major reason for customers to move from plating to PVD.

Why the Color Doesn’t Fade

Normal gold plating is applied to the uppermost part of the metal surface and, with time, wears out due to friction, sweat, and chemical reactions.

PVD coating is a process that creates a direct molecular adhesion with the base metal, which means the coating becomes part of the surface itself, not just a layer on top of it.  That’s why PVD jewelry does not fade in color when worn with perfume, sweat, and regular water exposure.

The Vickers hardness of most PVD coatings (2,000-3,000 HV) also means the scratch resistance is significantly higher than for conventional plating.

Choosing Your Signature Shade

The correct PVD color is related to your brand identity and your consumer.

Black is suitable for edgy and gender-neutral brands. 18K gold is for luxury and premium brands. Champagne gold is for minimalist design. Rose gold is for feminine and romantic brands. Rainbow and bold colors in purple or blue are for statement styles. PVD offers all of these choices with a durable and uniform finish.

If you’re interested in having a custom PVD color for your next jewelry line, get in touch with the OOTB Jewelry team. We produce custom stainless steel jewelry with full PVD colors in China.